Wind rustles through the pines. Seagulls screech overhead. We are anchored 100 yards from a rocky shoreline in Buck’s Harbor. Located on the northwest corner of Eggemoggin Reach (EggMcMuffin Reach?) in Penobscot Bay, this little harbor is quintessential Maine. A craggy pine-covered island occupies the entrance front and center. The area surrounding the island is filled with boats tied to mooring balls plus a few of us at anchor. The 3-masted schooner Victory Chimes, we first encountered in Pulpit Harbor, was here when we arrived. Several wooden boats lie to moorings and bob gently on the waves. There is little here other than a marina and yacht club, one restaurant, and a number of summer homes perched high on the surrounding hilltops. By late afternoon the Victory Chimes weighs anchor and exits the harbor. Soon she is replaced by another, though smaller, schooner. Another two-schooner harbor. It’s getting so that we expect to share our anchorage with a schooner and are disappointed if none show up. A two-schooner harbor is a bonus. Wooden sailing vessels and power vessels abound. A classic 85-foot 1935 Trumpy motorboat (Enticer) from Newport, RI arrives and sets the hook just in front of us. A postcard in every respect.
We continue to be amazed by the maritime heritage exhibited everywhere we go. Ancient wooden craft of all types still ply the waters of coastal Maine. You don’t see this much elsewhere, but it is common here. It isn’t hard to imagine a bygone era when anchored with 80-year old wooden vessels, sail and power, in a quiet cove. It is also refreshing to witness superb sailing skills. Large gaff-rigged sloops and 3-masted schooners alike sail into crowed harbors and deftly catch a mooring or drop anchor under sail. Extraordinary and always fun to watch.
We enjoyed the short 4-hour run from Southwest Harbor to get here. Dodging lobster pots the first two hours was tedious but, amazingly, upon entering Eggemoggin Reach they disappeared. The entire Reach was empty of pots; what a relief!! Thus, a pleasant run past Pumpkin Island Lighthouse (est. 1854 and currently a private residence) and into Buck’s Harbor. We spend a lovely afternoon simply enjoying the peacefulness of this beautiful place.
We lounge in Tivoli’s cockpit, watching the sun set, and taking in our remarkable surroundings. The afternoon breeze is gone; the harbor’s surface is a mirror. A full moon rises above the trees and soon illuminates the entire harbor. Yet another spectiacular view in Tivoli’s backyard.